Our school is located on Tenuta Regaleali, more than 900 acres of vineyards, olive groves, pasture, and wheat fields. Of this 360 hectares are dedicated to vines for wine production for Tasca including 17 varieties, international and native to Sicily.

For the last several weeks we’ve seen a line of Fiat Pandas along a side road signifying where in the field the pruning crew is. On Monday we met Livio Tognon, a pruning consultant, who taught us about how to maintain a healthy vineyard. Traditional vineyards have an average lifespan of 50 or 60 or 100 years while modern ones are half that. Dessication due to the pruning process and disease limit the amount of healthy wood and vascular flow requiring more water and fertilizer to sustain the plant. Smaller cuts and better branching techniques help to increase the consistency of the vine growth, health, and work for the laborers. It was interesting to learn new pruning techniques. It was invaluable to get up close with the vines before learning more about the winemaking process from Tasca’s enologist who oversees production of four million bottles. Laura Orsi explained the processes throughout the cantina and explained that for her “its important when you taste this wine, you taste this place.” Sampling their Nero d’Avola after pruning vines certainly gave me a deeper appreciation for the process (but I’m not sure if I could really taste or smell the terroir).

The rest of the week was spent exploring and enjoying Sicilian wine. We tasted and learned about more than twenty natural wines grown around the island in different soils ranging from the volcanic of Etna, the limestone of Vittoria, and salty sands near Marsala. Biodynamic enologist and all around badass business woman Arianna Occhipinti. Hearing her passion for what she produces was inspiring and her respect for tradition is evident. “I feel like a guardian of the place,” a phrase that struck me, especially when we touched and smelled the soil samples she brought to correspond with the wines we tasted. She asked us to notice while drinking if the wine gives energy as good wine brings good energy (a BD mantra if I ever heard one) and noted that a good wine should harmonize with food and give to a sense of well being. Sharing these wines with delicious meals (lamb chops! Orange-fennel herring salad! Pasta with sardines! Fava bean soup!) and good conversation is what it’s all about. Food is Love as Sandro Sangiorgi stresses enthusiastically. And an afternoon nap to follow.

The busy week was capped off with a whirlwind visit of Palermo with mom and Sue. We packed in lots of espresso, church visits, walking, pastry, and even opera – La Favorite at Teatro Massimo. Too short but a wonderful birthday (and Carnevale!) weekend celebration for all!